Recent Articles

500-foot aid route goes free, Ships Prow RMNP
August 05, 2015

Have you ever wanted to put up a first ascent, or even free an old aid line to establish a first free ascent? It can be intimidating – where do you even begin? For me, finding the line itself is...

BallNutz - How to make R and X rated routes safer
July 16, 2015

In the last twenty years, only two things have really reduced the danger in R or X rated routes: wide cams and BallNutz. Truly. Every time I have placed a BallNut on a free pitch, it has reduced it’s danger...

The Rise and Fall of Half Dome
July 15, 2015

As almost all of the climbing community has heard by now, a massive chunk of the most popular route on Half Dome, the Regular Northwest Face, fell down. Nearly two pitches worth of rock cleaved off. Now here's the sketchy...

Double Rack Harness Gear Review
July 12, 2015

                    I had an opportunity to really run the Trango Double Rack through the wringer in Yosemite recently and both me and my partner were extremely impressed with it. As a...